Panoramic View

Panoramic View
Click to read about Chiang Mai on Wikipedia.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Introduction to Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai was founded about seven hundred years ago. The city is surrounded by a moat and contains many beautiful wat temples which acts as a counter-balance to the modern development as it provides for tranquility and history. There are countless of first class hotels and restaurants, theatres and cinemas, sports complexes and golf courses, shopping malls and hypermarkets, hospitals and condominiums.

This is what globalisation brings about, every place becomes of a higher quality and places only strive to become top notch tourism destinations.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Culture of Chiang Mai

People of Chiang Mai

The culture of Chiang Mai was originally mixed from that of Mon traders and Lanna Tai. The culture of Chiang Mai today encompasses many different aspects due to the many people migrating to Chiang Mai. For example, the Burmese migrating to Chiang Mai in the 16th century. Then follwed by the Chinese and Muslims in the later half of the 19th century 300+ years later after the Burmese arrived.

Although Chiang Mai is part of Thailand, it is safe to say that the culture of Chiang Mai is very distinctive from the whole of Thailand. Due to Chiang Mai's culture being influenced by the Lanna Tai which is a unique culture in itself.


Landscape of Chiang Mai that contributed to its culture

But what really contributed to it's individuality is its physical location which is being centred in a highly mountainous geographical area which is once covered in thick dense forests. This makes overland communication very tough in the past and as a result Chiang Mai people developed their own customs and beliefs over the years over isolation.


However due to technological advancements and globalisation, Chiang Mai is a host to numerous sub-cultures and a variety of lifestyles. Chiang Mai is now a vibrant modern city with hilltribe hawkers and stallholders.


Chiang Mai is deeply rooted in traditionalism, but tourism made Chiang Mai more disneyfied as they now have to be in sync with modernity. People of Chiang Mai are now selling their crafts like silverwork, bamboo work and woodcarving etc.

Although there are Mahayana Buddhists, Muslims and Sikhs in the larger towns, the main and established religion is Theravada Buddhism which is similar to that throughout the whole of Thailand due to 95% of the people in Thailand being Buddhists.
The only real exceptions regarding religious beliefs are those of the various hilltribes that exist throughout Chiang Mai. Overall, they are largely animist which means that they worship the nature spirit world. Conversely, over the years, western missionaries have now converted some of the hilltribe people to Christianity.

References:

Friday, December 3, 2010

Traditions of Chiang Mai

Thai Cuisine at Chiang Mai

Food at Chiang Mai is an indigenous tradition that has been enriched by Arab, Indian, Malay and Chinese influence. Despite being infused with the cooking styles of other cultures, people of Chiang Mai love simple plain rice as it is the main staple for them. They would feel that they have not eaten if they did not eat rice. They even have various food dishes like desserts made out of rice. Like the sweet sticky rice with mango below.


They love also spicy food which is similar to the Thais in Thailand.

At the table the bulk of a meal consists of rice, which Thais flavor by taking small helpings from the central dishes. They use central serving spoons to serve the small portions onto their own plates, from which they eat. Serving themselves from one dish at a time, Thais usually finish each small portion before returning to a different dish for another; thus the full flavor of each dish may be savored in an equable atmosphere. In times of past hardships, this natural manner of sharing food also allowed a small amount of spicy flavoring to go a long way with plain rice.

Disneyization is seen here when the Lanna Tai culture is infused with the culture of other countries. It brings about a global similarity yet distinct in their own way. For example, the style of cooking becomes special when there is a mix.


However to cater to the tourists, Chiang Mai food is sold at food stalls near the Night Bazaar and Sompet Market. These two markets have English menus and there is dedifferentiation of consumption seen here as while Chiang Mai is marketed as a tourist destination. The tourists also have to eat as it is essential for living and the prices of food sold at such markets are usually marked up. Tourists spend obsessively as these food and commodities are unusually seen in their own country.

Transportation

There are various forms of transportation such as rental cars, tuk tuks, trains, songthaew (passenger pick up vehicles for big groups), samlors (rickshaws), bus, bikes and motorbikes.

However getting around Chiang Mai won't be too easy a task as the roads are now congested due to more and more Tuk Tuk cars on the road. And taxis are scarce in Chiang Mai. Therefore a tuk tuk ride is essential for really experiencing Thailand and Chiang Mai, which also a part of this theming.


This differentiates transportation in Thailand/Chiang Mai from other countries or cities as the sides of the car are not enclosed like a rickshaw except that it is motorised, providing a different experience. It sets Thailand apart from other countries which has taxis for transportation.


References:

http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/food_in_chiang_mai.shtml

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_Mai_Province#Local_Food

Indigenous groups

The indigenous people of Chiang Mai are those living in hill tribes which makes up about 13.4% of Chiang Mai's population. Chiang Mai is considered the melting pot of different hill tribes and the special culture that come along with it. They usually live on stilt houses except the Lisu.

There are six major hill tribes with subcategories and clans that further divide the groups of indigenous people. Each hill tribe has its own customs, language, dressing, skills, craft and spiritual belief and this applies to even subcategories within each hill tribe. For example, they have their own dialects even within one hill tribe and dress differently.



I will only touch on certain hill tribes that largely have to do with disneyization and their way of life and such. All the hill tribes come into contact with foreign cultures as they are more than happy to receive tourists as it means that there is money to made. Money making opportunities are welcomed as the hill tribes are rural and most of them are poor.

Karen

The largest minority group in Chiang Mai is the Karen. Some of the tribes are still practicing animism or being buddhist while many of the Karen were converted to Christianity by the missionaries.

They wore woven V-neck tunics of a range of natural colours and turbans. Unmarried women would wear long white V-neck tunics to distinct themselves from the rest. They occupy lowland areas and engage in agriculture. However they are the most environmentally conscious of the hill tribes as they practice crop rotation.



Padaung

The Paduang are part of the Karen people but they escaped and started a different hill tribe on their own.

The Padaung attract many curious visitors on account of their long-necked women. The women had to wear neck rings so that they would resemble their ancestors which are dragons and swans. Long necks symbolised elegance and sexuality. It was also hypothesised that it prevented them from being slaves to other tribes as the women appeared less attractive to other tribes.


Where does Disneyization come in?

Disneyization occurs here when most of the Karen, which is the majority of the hill tribes, were converted to a religion that was of something new to them. This is known as theming as the world is becoming more similar in the sense of religion. Christianity brought about antagonisation at the start because Christian missionaries promote and decry other religions like Buddhist and animism. They said stuff like Christians would go the heaven while people from other religion would burn in hell. Another hill tribe which is the Akha also goes through the same process till majority of the people converted to Christianity. People of these tribes feel that Christianity has diluted their original culture and religion.



A tradition of beautifying women by adding brass rings, up to 5 kilogrammes, to their necks has been preserved largely for generating tourism. Although the neck appears cruelly elongated, it is the collarbone which has been displaced rather than the stretching and weakening of the neck.


The culture of the women having to wear neck rings were almost disneyified under theming as the government of Thailand wants Chiang Mai to be more modernised. So that Thailand will be more in sync with the 20th century world. The government did not allow the younger women to wear the neck rings if they wanted to continue with education. However, some of the young girls continued with their tradition as they knew it was a source of revenue.

Also, the women of Padaung were subjected to emotional labour as they had to pretend that they were happy with being stared at and photographed by tourists. They had to wear the neck rings for tradition and not to generate more revenue for themselves but the hill tribes are run by local businessmen and these people also want to earn from their tradition. They knew that their culture has been exploited due to the surge of tourism and feel antagonised. In actual fact, most of them suffer while wearing the neck rings. For example, their necks are burnt or bruised by the neck rings that are welded on. They are refugees and they are glad to even be alive. Therefore they had to accept tourism and smile to tourists despite feeling unhappy deep down inside as they are safe and can earn some money. Moreover, tourists would expect to get the same friendliness from the locals.

And moreover in comparison to Disney, while the idea of emotional labour may concern some Chiang Mai people, there is a certain similarity with Disney as Disney is not short of people who welcome this as part of their job and want to work at Disney. Similarly, there are people who want to preserve the culture because of their pride and don't mind earning money from it.

The way they dress

For example, some indigenous people and communities, dress in their traditional clothing only when the tourists are visiting them, even though they would only wear it for ceremonies and festivals when the tourists aren’t visiting. The false image that these indigenous cultures present to the tourist is misleading and does not give the tourist a true cultural experience. Like example, the Karen people is usually seen in their traditional clothes as they are a popular settlement to visit when tourists visit Chiang Mai.

References:

http://www.1stopchiangmai.com/culture/hill_tribes/

http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/hill_tribes.shtml

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_Mai_Province

http://www.chiangmainews.com/indepth/details.php?id=469

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kayan_Lahwi

http://www.google.com.sg/imglanding?q=hill+tribes+chiang+mai+houses&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1&tbnid=kNL_V7tU4u83PM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ultimatejourney.com/Chap29.html&imgurl=http://www.ultimatejourney.com/T.BambooHuts.JPG&zoom=1&w=640&h=480&iact=hc&ei=TFL7TIPsCcbKrAfiu_TPCA&oei=TFL7TIPsCcbKrAfiu_TPCA&esq=1&page=1&tbnh=134&tbnw=179&start=0&ved=1t:429,r:21,s:0&biw=1408&bih=714

http://www.google.com.sg/imglanding?q=removal+of+neck+rings&um=1&hl=en&tbs=isch:1&tbnid=J8XHCnjoLTK0FM:&imgrefurl=http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthread.php%253Ft%253D225359%2526page%253D2&imgurl=http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj147/leretserge/femme_girafe.jpg&zoom=1&w=400&h=600&iact=hc&ei=T1X7TN6ZMoa8cI_wlPQO&oei=I1X7TMLJHsLUrQf074DXCA&esq=4&page=3&tbnh=131&tbnw=86&start=64&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:64&biw=1408&bih=714

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Languages of Chiang Mai

Standard Thai is used as the official language, but the northern dialect is more widely spoken among the local people. English is understood in business circles and tourist areas.

Languages in Chiang Mai is disneyified due to English being more commonly used by the tourists and the people of Chiang Mai have to take up lessons to learn English instead of their own literature which sometimes do not have a written version.

Mode of Educations in Chiang Mai

Six years of primary education are compulsory and free for all Thai children, although there are certain small expenses for uniforms, books and writing materials.

Chiang Mai is home to five universities, Buddhist and Christian seminaries, technical colleges, four international English language schools and one German one, a large university teaching hospital and several private ones, some with nursing schools. There are also many private language schools as well as the AUA, the British Council, Australian and New Zealand centres and the Alliance Francaise.

Varee Kindergarten Chiang Mai

All this means that there are many opportunities for native English language teachers, especially if they have a university degree and teaching qualifications. Thai schools are desperate to employ English teachers but they do not give enough incentives to attract English teachers. Therefore the native English language teachers would choose to work overseas where the benefits and incentives are more lucrative.

The international schools cater for the children of ex-patriates living in Thailand and are increasingly attracting Thai children and those from neighbouring countries, whose parents want them to be educated in English. As if their children can speak English, they can communicate with the world more smoothly.

This occurs when the world becomes more globalised and English would be the common language between people.

People in Chiang Mai can learn not only in schools and universities but also by interacting with tourists. However, they hardly read or get to watch movies or documentaries. But there are certain forms of education like art exhibits in international schools that certain people of a limited age can . They are not given any choice and this is a huge disadvantage to them. The art exhibition below promotes foreign culture like Spiderman, and this would be of influence to the future generations as they would be more interested in something that is of fantasy and mystery.



References:

http://www.chiangmai-thai.com/education.htm

http://www.chiangmainews.com/ecmn/viewfa.php?id=2571

http://www.moe.go.th/English/

Leisure Programmes



Loi Kra-Thong

One of the most beautiful sights that is very enjoyable due to the movement of lights are the annual festival of Loi Kra-Thong held in November. This festival is to show gratitude to the water for the usage of the river.

As the moon rises in the evening, small lotus-shaped raft of banana leaves filled with flowers, candle, a snip of your nail, a piece of your hair, and a few coins, is set afloat in the ocean or down a waterway begging good luck for the forthcoming year. The best Kra-Thong must be made of banana leaves or bread so that it would become food for the fish and there would be less pollution. In Chiang Mai, there is releasing the large paper hot-air balloons. It is to symbolise casting away your troubles and calling in the hopes of the future.



Songkran

Traditionally it was celebrated by Buddha images being bathed with water and the showing of respect to monks and elders. From the sprinkling of water onto someone’s hands as a sign of respect it has evolved into mass drenching for anyone who decides to venture outdoors. Tourists are attracted to the wild side of Songkran instead of what it traditionally was. Everyone would go for thrill therefore the festival was slowly modified to suit the taste of the tourists.



Spas and Thai massages

Spas in the past were health resorts at natural waters or baths that could be taken by people suffering from rheumatism and kindred complaints, however in recent years, the Lanna tradition of massages and herbal therapies are integrated into spas to create something special.

Spas would often be coupled by Thai massages.



References:

http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/festivals.shtml

http://www.openchiangmai.com/chiangmai_festival.php

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpCSvi0n_6o

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

What is Chiang Mai famous for?

What is Chiang Mai known for?

Chiang Mai is famous for being scenic with all the mountain ranges, valleys, flora and fauna. It is also popular because of the Lanna Tai's unique culture, locally made products and handicrafts.

However, today it is known for their Karen long neck settlement, Lanna Cultural Centre Night Bazaar, handicraft boutiques, Chiang Mai Night Safari which is modelled after Singapore's Night Safari, elephant rides, Khantoke Dinner, temples.

Khantoke Evenings

"Arguably the best way to enjoy Northern Thai culture is to spend an evening at a Khantoke dinner. Increasingly popular with tourists, these events have evolved into a superb display of the best of Thai culture; including a sumptuous spread of Northern Thai food (served in traditional-style at floor level), classical Thai dancing from exquisitely dressed dancers, and traditional Northern and other Thai music played on unique Asian instruments. Several of these venues are now situated out in the suburbs and take place in beautifully constructed traditional pavilions. Your hotel or guesthouse can organise this activity for you. There is also a free cultural show every evening at the Night Market." -quoted from http://www.1stopchiangmai.com/culture/festivals/

The whole experience has become very commercialised, just like Disney's themepark. From the extract above, we can see that the performance is not similar to what it traditionally was due to the word evolved.

There might be several performances occurring at the same time at different locations sometimes just next to each other while in the past, it was only performed to entertain businessmen at parties for VIPS. There is no more significance of the traditional dances performed as it becomes a daily ritual for the performers. Emotional labour is found here in the performances. Although they give their all in performing for the tourists, the authentic traditional feel is gone. When the performers give their all in performing, the tourist might feel that the performer is not actually working but taking pride in their tradition. Therefore, they are encouraged to spend more due to the smiling and helpful demeanour of the performers.


You can take photos with the performers after the performances or participate in the rituals for a small fee. This feels almost as if you are taking pictures with the mascots at Disney. And the tourists also would not understand the history of the dance or what story it has to tell as there is no such information given during the performance. The whole experience is packaged. For example, you go for the dinner but you feel compelled to participate in the photo taking or the rituals as it seems only natural to do so.

Watching a cultural Lanna Tai performance while eating your dinner is what makes the whole experience unique. This is constructed history, such as the performances. Like the performances each have their own story but it is infused together so that the tourists could feast their eyes on all kinds. And plus there is good service because it was meant to entertain VIPs in the past, therefore it makes it possible for the prices of the Khantoke dinner to constantly fetch a higher price. And there is unlimited refills of food therefore it will constantly attract tourists to take part in an Khantoke dinner as it is satisfying in all sense.

Night Bazaar

You basically go there and enjoy yourselves but you will inevitably buy countless of souvenirs while being at Chiang Mai. This is where disneyization comes in due to dedifferentiation of consumption. Firstly, these type of markets provides a site for selling local products related to the Lanna culture that has accumulated over the years. And sales from such local products actually makes up for most of the profits earned from tourists in Chiang Mai.

More and more hotels are built and handicraft boutiques are set up to cater to the surge of tourists. And there is only a fine line between really consuming culture tourism or buying the products linked to their culture. Markets as such are carefully designed to make tourists purchase their products. For example, you can purchase the neck rings for a few hundred bahts. And there is cross promotion of goods which are the experience of culture and the products of culture.


The experience of being at Chiang Mai used to be visiting the hill tribes and looking at their way of life. But now people go to Chiang Mai to watch commoditised festive dances or to buy their handicraft which they used to make for keepsakes. These tourists have the impression that they are visiting the local hill tribes and understanding their way of life. But what they do not know is that they are actually encouraged to buy the commodities.

Chiang Mai Night Safari

Chiang Mai's Night Safari is a government nature theme park which is built to promote Chiang Mai tourism regarding to the government's policy apart from arts, cultures, traditions, and the beauty of nature which are the main fascinating tourist attractions.


For example, the Chiang Mai Night Safari pollutes Chiang Mai's water sources and it brings about more construction as tourists always want top-notch attractions and facilities. But it was still constructed because Thailand's sports and tourism minister wanted to up their competitive edge. More construction such as the Night Safari's new playground, which is a musical fountain to entertain kids. Places that focus more on entertainment tend to exploit the locals and degrade the environment, making the experience less authentic. It is ironic that while promoting a natural experience, all the facilities are built with high quality materials and the Night Safari does not blend in with the natural environment. Also, the animals at the Night Safari are either trafficked from Kenya or Australia with reference to Ecoterra.


This is Disneyization as the experience is themed. It is built to rival Singapore's Night Safari and the actual Disneyland itself. The facade of the Night Safari is very high class and yet it has cultural elements such as the elephant or animals found in Chiang Mai.


References:

http://www.ecoterra.net/sites/background-info.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuVav8zPCQ4&feature=related

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Summary on changes brought about by tourism with some examples

Tourism as a source of revenue

Tourism has become a source of revenue, for example the people that used to farm in agriculture sectors in Chiang Mai now work in their own homes to provide for a tourism destination. And they are reliant on tourists to come and visit. Also the Karen could also get a small sum of money for showing tourists how it is like when they take out their neck rings.

Employment opportunities

There are now more employment opportunities as high class hotels usually require manpower and it would be easier to recruit locals. For example, hotels, restaurants, taxis and souvenir shops are part of services that tourists would demand. And all these provide for a better paying job than working as farmers.



Price inflation

The local tradition which is the Khantoke evening would definitely be the first to be affected by inflation. Tourists have higher purchasing power than locals in Chiang Mai and this increase in purchasing power and demand for basic goods and services could drive up the cost of living in Chiang Mai. For example, the price of the Khantoke evening would keep rising as demand for it is constantly on the rise. Locals staying in such tourist destinations may find the price increase difficult to accept if they are not working in tourism sectors.

Economic inequality

Areas that are popular with tourists would be more developed than the rest of Chiang Mai and this would lead to great economic disparities within the city of Chiang Mai. See the difference in the photos below.




Interaction between tourists and locals

There would be cultural exchange between tourists and locals. It can be of educational value and enable both parties to appreciate each other's cultures and practices and encouraging mutual respect. However, there could be social and cultural clashes due to misunderstandings and different opinions.

Ethical issues

Unethical and illegal practices might occur as there would be might be child labour and prostitution. There could be children under the age of 18 working at street vendors or at the Night Bazaar where there is a demand. Commercial sexual exploitation of children and young women could be widely seen in Chiang Mai as it is one of the the major centres for prostitution. There is a lure of easy money therefore it leads young women into trading their bodies for material possessions. For example as quoted from wikipedia: "Ethnic hill tribe children: these children live in the border region of northern Thailand. They suffer from disproportionate levels of poverty in relation to the general population and most of them lack citizenship cards. This means that they do not have access to health care or primary school, which limits their further education or employment opportunities." This makes it easier to lure them with the promise of easy money.

Conservation of cultural heritage

Tourist demand for local cultural skills and products may ensure the preservation and survival of local cultures and traditions. For example, the income earned from the stage cultural performances in Chiang Mai has ensured the survival of some traditional dance troupes. Tourists' demand for Lanna Tai dances and artwork has also revived local interest.

Revenue generated from tourism could provide funds needed to conserve local cultural heritage like the 300+ temples in Chiang Mai. For example, entrance fees collected can be used for the maintenance and refurbishment of the temples.

However, conservation efforts are not always beneficial as conservation of cultural heritage often includes a choice of what is to be conserved and what not to be conserved. For example, the local people of Chiang Mai are becoming displaced in the new and modern facades of the restaurants and souvenir stores catering to tourists.

Local cultural festivals and religious rituals are modified accordingly to meet the demand and expectations of tourists. This applies whenever tourists pay to see such rituals and festivals performed. Local cultures become commercialised when souvenirs related to local historical and cultural sites are mass produced and sold to tourists. Commercialisation of religious festivals and cultural items would reduce their authenticity and significance. The best example in Chiang Mai relating to this point is the Khantoke dinner. The different dances of different ethnic tribes performed are not supposed to be performed in one single ceremony. And it usually only contains small segments of what it originally was.

Tourism related infrastructure and facilities

Infrastructure and attractions initially meant for tourists can also benefit locals and improve their way of life. For example, in Chiang Mai, many attractions such as the Chiang Mai Night Safari are not only meant for tourists but for locals to visit as well.

Locals also benefit from the development of tourist facilities and services. The upgrading of health services, transportation networks, recreational facilities and other public services in Chiang Mai certainly helps to improve the standard of living.

There would be conflicts in the types of land use or resource use in a tourist destination. As tourist attractions and hotels are more profitable that other local land use (eg, agriculture), locals would stand to lose out when such land use conflicts arise. One example is the Night Safari in Chiang Mai. The Night Safari pollutes the river which affects the livelihood of the locals living near the river.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prostitution_in_Thailand

Monday, November 29, 2010

Tourism - A culprit for commodifying cultures and tradition?

I personally do not think that tourism is the only cause. Everyone involved in making cultures and traditions commodified all have a part. For example, the locals who welcomed tourism and the government who allowed tourism to affect the city's culture and tradition. Also, there is the advancement of technology. If there is no technology, there would be lesser tourism.

But most of all, we should look into what drives tourism. And the answer would be tourists themselves. We as tourists want to see the world naturally but we do not have the time to watch the world naturally. Therefore, there are staged performances that take lesser of our time to meet our demand and expectation. Tourists also want a better quality experience everytime they visit a tourist destination, therefore there would be developments. All these developments would lead to loss of culture eventually.

Therefore I can say that tourism is a culprit but it would not be the only culprit.